Protips for findind exhaust leak
That_Annoying_Kid
Sire of Titles Join Date: 2003-03-01 Member: 14175Members, Constellation
Sire of Titles Join Date: 2003-03-01 Member: 14175Members, Constellation
in Off-Topic
<div class="IPBDescription">C'mere Talesin I know you lerk</div>Howdy folks,
I recently purchased an 86 Chevy s10 Xcab 2.8 V6 for dirt dirt cheap from a buddy of mine who didn't want to go to the trouble of fixing it, after swapping out the gnarly trans fluid, it drives much better. We still plan on getting a new transmission in the long run, but for now the most pressing issue is the small exhaust leak. I tried spraying some wd40 in the throttle body and looking for smoke, and I tried using a long rubber hose (one end on ear, other end searching)
I just wanted to ask if anyone out there has any neat tricks for finding this sucker, I'm pretty sure it's a few feet after the Y where the pipe that runs straight back meets the pipe that is coming from the single end of the Y, there is a hanger where it looks like it should be welded. If that is the case it's going to be a) jb weld b) exhaust tape or c) take it to local friendly spot welding guy.
Anywho, thanks for your time and have a pleasant day
I recently purchased an 86 Chevy s10 Xcab 2.8 V6 for dirt dirt cheap from a buddy of mine who didn't want to go to the trouble of fixing it, after swapping out the gnarly trans fluid, it drives much better. We still plan on getting a new transmission in the long run, but for now the most pressing issue is the small exhaust leak. I tried spraying some wd40 in the throttle body and looking for smoke, and I tried using a long rubber hose (one end on ear, other end searching)
I just wanted to ask if anyone out there has any neat tricks for finding this sucker, I'm pretty sure it's a few feet after the Y where the pipe that runs straight back meets the pipe that is coming from the single end of the Y, there is a hanger where it looks like it should be welded. If that is the case it's going to be a) jb weld b) exhaust tape or c) take it to local friendly spot welding guy.
Anywho, thanks for your time and have a pleasant day
Comments
Edit PS: There is a good chance that it's actually the exhaust manifold that is cracked and leaking especially with an older vehicle, but that is much more of a pain to find/get to/fix than a general exhaust leak. Might be the case if you can't find a leak yourself.
???
Exhaust leaks!
Patch with MIG welder (only paid $80 for mine from a flea market, must have tool.)
Or you could also try filling the engine/exhaust up with water then seeing where it leaks out.
You can thank me later.
<a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyurethane" target="_blank">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyurethane</a>
Now THATS what I call a protip.
DrFuzzy: Ironically enough, my friend who is helping me on this has a dance club grade smoke machine...
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Juice: Yes, yes it is indeed
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Now I just need to:
Fix seatbelt drivers side, get new tail light cover for left side, run the gas / seafoam thru, change fuel filter, plugs, and check ignition and it's smog time!
Oh need review mirror, and eventually new front glass (it's got a spideweb that runs thru right side)
Oh and I need to dial in the audio, the subs kinda overpower everything and I want more sound quality than pressure level.
Long term it's going to be water wetter, and a K & N, and eventually new 700 tranny
Extra-careful with the seafoam if you haven't done it properly before, it's easy to hydrolock and **** your engine completely if you let in too much, too fast.
Drop-in K&N replacements aren't much of a boost (any whatsoever actually) unless you're going for a replacement unit with more surface area than the stock filter. Or if you just want a re-usable filter instead of shelling out $7 twice a year or so for the paper ones. K&N mostly gets by on placebo effect; if you actually TEST the vacuum difference with a manometer, there's virtually zero difference. In fact, the K&N material tends to filter worse than basic paper on top of that.
Never bothered with water wetter either, but then I never had coolant problems... only over-temps I tended to run into were the front brake calipers getting some boil-off, and a too-small intercooler running out of legs on extended sessions on-boost.
The air filter was dirty to the point of being restrictive, so I swapped it for the cheap paper one, I just want the K & N cause it's washable, and slightly bigger etc... I'm lot looking for "bolt on power" or some slap######ery like that
it runs around 208° and I want to flush the system then add the water wetter. My buddy says it knocked at least 5 / 10 degrees of the cars he has run it in. This engine is supposed to "run hot" but I'm dubious, I also want to change the thermostat.
Once we run this tank of gas thru it's fuel filters and spark plugs, and check ignition then take it to get smogged.
need to reconnect the linkage for the ac / heater, it claims to be in the off position but dumps hot air from every vent. Also my left turn signal loves to randomly stop working, I figure something is loose in the relays, it comes back on a whim, but it may have something to do with the two way baretta alarm...
Be warned that servicing a K&N means you will be unable to drive that car anywhere for about a day, unless you trade out for a paper one in the short term. They have to air dry, and are a PAIN to wash and re-charge with the special oil. It's really more convenient (and no less power, realistically) to just use a paper filter.
Do not change your thermostat. This is one of the 'dumba** Eclipse kids' moves; your engine is supposed to run at the temp that the thermo is set for. Lower, and it's very likely your engine will stay in 'warmup mode', burning additional fuel to try to get the coolant up to temperature. Water wetter is acceptable if you want it... thermal transfer yadda yadda BS BS BS, it only changes anything and drops the heat faster when the thermo is open, and the engine is at-temp.
After a Seafoaming, replace your spark plugs. It's cheap, and worth it with all the crap that will be on them afterward. Then again, that's the vacuum hose method of seafoaming.
I have a cheapass alarm on my beater from a prior owner; all sorts of electrical problems are directly blamable on sh***y alarm systems. Take it out and get a GOOD one PROFESSIONALLY installed, or run down the problems yourself. It'll become a very long-running hobby.
Pretty sure the blinker is the handle, which I ruled out at first... Still the wiring diagrams for anything electrical just look sketch
I already planned on replacing the spark plugs (already have a pack of OEM), it's just they have the wiring type that loves to come off the boot, so I'm going to get the wiring as well before we do that one.
When I said change I meant replace with OEM, I'm not looking for magical power bolt on (or in this case a thermostat that runs lower and or has bigger fluid transfer capacity) I'm looking for reliability...
Need to replace the seat belt retractor, I just don't know what sort of gugungous bolts it uses to attach to the frame. Back taillight covers need torque bits to get on / off, and I need to eventually replace windshield.
Oh yeah, the amp could use a dialing in, but it sounds pretty good.
Valve for heater core was behind glove box, it stopped blowing hot air into cab we just need to fix the temperature linkage for the AC, but that is all sorts of behind the dash
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