PC died, need help choosing new one
CCTEE
Join Date: 2013-06-20 Member: 185634Members, Reinforced - Shadow
Join Date: 2013-06-20 Member: 185634Members, Reinforced - Shadow
- Got about 1000 euro to spend.
-Only need the PC itself (no mouse etc).
-I prefer 'ready made' system i can order and have in house before the weekend (last no-ns-weekend was horrible enough and i dont trust myself building a pc, glueing processor etc).
-need something i get 1 reciepts of so i can (try) and get some money back threw work-program.
-I live in the netherlands.
Any suggestions?
-Only need the PC itself (no mouse etc).
-I prefer 'ready made' system i can order and have in house before the weekend (last no-ns-weekend was horrible enough and i dont trust myself building a pc, glueing processor etc).
-need something i get 1 reciepts of so i can (try) and get some money back threw work-program.
-I live in the netherlands.
Any suggestions?
Comments
How is this (1030 euro):
Intel® Core™ i7 4790K 4.0 GHz
Standard cooling
MSI H81M-E34
Crucial Ballistix Tactical 8GB DDR3-1866
Nvidia GTX 960 2GB
SSD Crucial BX100 120GB (i'll put in my old HDD aswell)
Standard soundcard
1Gbit networkcard
600 Watt Cooler Master voeding
including (ugly but fine) case.
Some Feedback:
Are you familiar with over-clocking? Because otherwise that board and cpu are a "waste of money".
Also get a least a custom cpu air cooler like the Macho-HR2 or the Muggen 4 (both ~35 €) . Your ears and the cpu will thank you later.
Also the 960 is allready a bit weak when it comes to gaming, better try to get a GTX 970.
That gtx 970 is expensive
Anyway, keep the feedback coming or i order something random tomorrow.
When it comes to GPUs it depends a bit on what resolution you will play at.
You could also 'risk' used systems from tweakers. Usually the hard work has been done for you. (although note that they expect you bring some basic knowhow)
Remember the better the PSU (gold/platinum certified etc), the more efficient it is.. Which means you can use a less watt one, for the same rig.
http://www.computerbase.de/forum/showthread.php?t=215394
1000€
Intel Core i5-4460 Boxed (or Intel Core i5-4690 Boxed)
Gigabyte GA-H97-D3H (or ASUS H97-Plus or ASRock H97M Pro4)
8GB Crucial 1600MHz CL9 (or 8GB G.Skill 1333MHz CL9)
GTX 970 (or R9 290X)
be quiet! Straight Power E10-CM 500W (or Sea Sonic G-Series G-550 550W or Cooler Master G550M 550W)
Samsung SSD 850 EVO 250GB (or Crucial MX200 250GB or SanDisk Ultra II 240GB )
Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 1TB (orWestern Digital Caviar Blue 1TB)
Samsung SH-224DB (or LG GH24NSC0 oder LG BH16NS40)
Corsair Carbide Series 300R (or Cooler Master N500 oder BitFenix Shinobi)
I personally would take the Sea Sonic G-Series over the bequiet! PSU, imho Seasonic is the best manufacturer for PSUs.
Maybe go for Crucial with the SSD, Samsung had some problems with the firmware, but Idk if it is still an issue.
If you want a Silent PC you should invest into a better Tower like the Fractal Refine R4 or the new R5, and go for the ASUS Strix GTX 970, and maybe get a fanless PSU like the Seasonic platinum 520.
And as already said, always buy a good air cooler for your CPU (but still buy it as a "boxed" version, cuz of warranty.
Done.
Matching red and black colour scheme to boot, who cares for optical drives, get an USB external one to install your OS.
£1002.34 unfortunately not EURO but meh.
• Define R5 Black, behuizing
• M12II-520 EVO, 520 Watt voeding
• B85-G43 Gaming, socket 1150 moederbord
• BX100, 120 GB SSD
• DT01ACAxxx, 2 TB harde schijf
• GTX 960 2GD5T OC, grafische kaart
• Geluid, geluidskaart
• Core™ i5-4690K, 3,5 GHz (3,9 GHz Turbo Boost) 1150 processor
• Dark Rock Advanced C1, Actieve CPU koeler
• 16 GB DDR3-1866 Kit, geheugen
• Netwerk,
• SH-224DB/BEBE, DVD-brander
• Windows 8.1, OEM
Slightly (200,-) above budget but whatthefuck, girlfriend is an angry woman anyway.
But no, dont rlyyyy need it.
You went from this:
To this:
You are now over budget. I see you dropped down to an i5 which will save you some money.
Your have went from a H81 to B85 motherboard. This motherboard still can't overclock if you plan on doing that. You need a z87 or z97 motherboard to overclock. Those motherboards also cost more.
You added somethings too.
Do you need the new 2tb hdd (DT01ACAxxx, 2 TB harde schijf)? Why not use your old one like you were planning on to save money?
I completely agree the DVD writer is not very needed. I haven't had one installed in years. Since you are over budget I would recommend not getting it. If you really want it you can put it in later.
You added a cpu cooler, which is good. Will make your computer quieter and cooler and aide in overclocking if you decide to do that.
You also went from 8GB to 16GB of memory. Do you need 16GB? Going down to 8 GB will save you money and put you more on budget. The memory you chose is 1866mhz which is faster than the 1600mhz standard. There is incredibly small performance gains from faster than 1600mhz. You could also choose a slower memory to save money.
I should of posted this earlier. This might help you.
http://www.logicalincrements.com/
Thanks for the feedback. I actually ordered the PC above but was too hasty so i cancelled it this morning.
Ok so.. i decided to:
-salvage from old PC as much as i can / is usefull
-order loose parts
-build my own pc (slowly and carefully) over the weekend.
What i salvaged from my old (Medion) PC:
2x 4gb of RAM (little stickers says '2Rx8.PC3-10600U' and some more numbers / stuff)
1x HDD Seagate Barracuda 1000GB SATA 7200RPM (and more stuff)
1x SDD Kingston 60 GB
1x GeForce GTX 670
1 windows 7 productkey sticker (i know files are on a 'reinstall compartment' on the HDD above)
So what should i re-use of this? My plan:
RAM: yes
HDD: yes, for downloads / music/ movies
SDD: dont know (it's small)
GPU: no, too old and dusty
Windows productkey: i dont know (is it even re-usable on another PC?)
What do u guys think of above re-use plans?
Reusing old parts is the most economic-friendly way. Be aware that medion saves money as most manufacturers at the following parts of a PC:
So you should check those via analysis tools like CPU-Z and Crystaldiskinfo (RAM and HDD) and outright replace the PSU and Mainboard if possible. (Because you can't use those tools atm just build the system with the given hardware and replace ineffective parts if needed later
As you are now going to build your pc yourself, you should get a PSU with CM (Cable Management). Those are just easier to set up and you have general more open space for the air flow.
Also you might want to get a more "open and modern" case and don't want to reuse your medion case. Those are often pretty weird and narrow designed internally. Making it extra hard to fit all things inside, beside leaving space for a proper air flow.
Overall the hardest part for new ppl when it comes to setting up a PC is to place the CPU cooler correctly. So better buy some extra thermal paste (~3 - 6€), just so you have some more tries.
When it comes to your windows key you can use this website (Microsoft) to check if it's valid for a non-OEM PC.
Probably you have to reinstall your OS anyway as you are moving from BIOS to UEFI. (Yes you could fix the boot-loader manually, but better go with the clean way)
I always kinda recommend to reinstall the OS when you replace the motherboard to get rid of all the old chip-set drivers etc. .
In the end when it comes to the exact pc parts choose yourself.The only one that your new pc needs to satisfy is you. The link nordic posted is a good reference though.
If not ill have to add windows to the following list (plan):
GPU: GIGABYTE GV-N970WF3-4GD, grafische kaart
Case: Fractal Design Define R5 Black, behuizing
Proc: Intel® Core™ i5-4690, 3,5 GHz (3,9 GHz Turbo Boost) 1150 processor
MOBO: ASUS Z97-P, socket 1150 moederbord
SSD: Crucial BX100, 250 GB SSD
PSU: Seasonic M12II-620 EVO Bronze
COOLAR: be quiet! Shadow Rock 2, Actieve CPU koeler
(ill ad in 1GB HDD + 2x 4GB 1333 ram)
Does any1 see any problems with fitting all this stuff together?
I think i checked the important stuff but i am no expert (at all).
Here's the list in partpicker:
uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/MTj8kL
I fear not, because that recovery partition usually only contains a dump down version of the windows installer (basically just a hdd mirror of the "delivery condition"), missing some important drivers for your new system and possible the uefi bootloader. Also OEM versions of windows are usually bundled to the given mainboard (via some bios flags).
Often medion ships out a system builder key with a recovery disk with their PCs. Which is a full valid windows key. Try to find that recovery disk.
About the cpu + main-board combo: non k Intel CPUs have a locked multiplier. Meaning OCing is a lot harder while otherwise gaining at least + ~0.5 Ghz via just increasing the multiplier is pretty easy (most modern uefi boards do this even automatically).
So either get the k Version of the CPU or get a non Z-Chip board if you don't want to OC.
A little warning about the CPU Cooler: That one is great but a bit tricky to set up. Also it's really high, but your case seems to be fine for it with 18 cm available.
This is the actual name of the CPU in the shopping list:
Intel® Core™ i5-4690K, 3,5 GHz (3,9 GHz Turbo Boost) 1150 processor
FC-LGA4, "Haswell-R", boxed
So this is a K version and therefore good right?
Also: should i worry about the compatibility check (see above list)?
Yes
Edit: I would be more concerned about the CPU cooler actually with the R4 (has only 17 cm available vs 16,5 cm cooler). One GPU shouldn't be a issue as long as you don't need more than 5 HDD slots.
I would strongly disadvoice from using old memory in a new rig. Memory is not always compatible with every motherboard and CPU. They keep lists of compatible memory. Yes, memory not on the list could work, but its not a guarantee.. Why risk it with tech still new enough?
Note that if you ever want to add more memory (so mix different models of memory), its easier to do this with newer modules.
PSU is a important part of your computer, often underestimated. Many manufacturers of videocards over-budget the power requirements to account for insane crap PSUs.. I can not imagine a medion pc having a quality PSU.
Apart from electricity going to waste, under load a certified PSU will provide more stable flow, prolonging your other hardwares lifespan and minimizing other problems. (aka, how well would your other hardware handle differences in stuff like current.)
The i5-4690 is specced at a memory speed of Memory Types DDR3 and DDR3L 1333/1600 at 1.5V, with dual channel.
So anything higher then that would overclock your uncore.
While faster memory does improve speed in your computer, its not THAT much of a increase. Especially on a tight budget, do not stare blindly on high speeds. 1600 is just fine.
We could talk for hours and folk would always find something better or different.. a few mere pointers to get you along, hopefully.
* Motherboard should never be budget for a gaming rig. Everything else is plugged into this. Many weird stability issues can be found in this.
* PSU is important.. It does not need to be as high in watt as many GPU folk claim, if its a good certified CPU. (reviews will tell you).. a bad PSU is inefficient and shorters components life.
* memory is not universal compatible. If budget allows, keep it within the compliance lists supplied with the motherboard. High speeds help but matter less in terms of performance then other components, up to a point of course.
* CPU, 4 cores is usually the max you use for any game. AMD is cheaper but runs hotter in general. (more specific it draws more power for the same performance, and that has to go somewhere.) Intel is less hot but far more expensive.
* SSD for booting up & pagefile matters. Can be small SSD. (128GB) Small SSD is marginally slower then bigger. Any SSD is a win over mechanical drives.
* mechanical drive (normal or hybrid) for anything else.
* for GPU its the same heat talk. Intel runs more cool/less power then with AMD. Either choice again is fine, its heat vs cost.
* Do not go nuts on one component and ignore another.. getting a superb CPU will mean nothing if the harddisk or gpu is utter trash.
Which one?
https://alternate.nl/Hardware/Componenten/Koeling/CPU
Also i assume you are 24/7 standby for techsupport this weekend @GhoulofGSG9 ?
It's actually legal (under certain circumstances speaking of system builder licenses).
Sources:
http://www.zdnet.com/article/is-it-ok-to-use-oem-windows-on-your-own-pc-dont-ask-microsoft/
http://www.heise.de/newsticker/meldung/Microsoft-muss-im-OEM-Streit-Niederlage-einstecken-29554.html (German) (German BGH verdict from the 6. July 2000 based on German and EU law)
My personal favorite for a fast and clean setup (~10 mins) is the Macho(-HR2) (comes with a free screwdriver
I personally love the !bequiet fans but the dark rock/shadow rocks are beasts and i had issues in the past fitting them into some cases (even the HAF X case). Thats why i say look out that your case supports at very least 17 cm.
@GhoulofGSG9 @DC_Darkling
Also i added to the shopping list:
-Corsair 8 GB DDR3-1600 Kit, geheugen (CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9, Vengeance, XMP)
And:
-Microsoft Windows 8.1
This one Ghoul?
https://alternate.nl/html/product/1170066
Isnt that one even bigger then the Shadow Rock one?
Ups, i didn't noticed you picked the second version of the shadow rock. The old one was higher than the macho, the new one is about equally large it seems. So you should be good to go with the shadow rock as well. Still the macho should be easier to set up, but normally the !bequiet fans are better. So it's up to you
The (already payed for and now in order-modus) shopping list:
Define R5 Black, behuizing
GV-N970WF3-4GD,
Z97-P, socket 1150 moederbord
Core™ i5-4690K, 3,5 GHz (3,9 GHz Turbo Boost) 1150 processor
M12II-620 EVO Bronze, 620 Watt voeding
BX100, 250 GB SSD
8 GB DDR3-1600 Kit, geheugen
Windows 8.1
Shadow Rock 2, Actieve CPU koeler
Now hope i dont ruin anything when learning to put it all together
You 'can' use a OEM licence on a new pc you are making yourself, as you are your own OEM. You can not legally however, transfer a already used OEM licence from a OEM pc to your own rig. (although im fairly sure it would work technicly)
I personally stepped away from huge bigg ass coolers like the one you just selected.. I am now going for either water cooling full setup (never tried) or, what I am currently using, closed loop water coolers, like the H80. (awesome lil buggers)
personal preference. The big coolers cool fine but are well... big. The closed loop cool that much better but you transfer the 'big' to a side of your case with the fans, out of way of the motherboard. (aka, you can access stuff better while screwing)
Just take it easy putting stuff together, take your time. Use a well lit room.
Ground yourself before you touch stuff.. (static shocks etc).
Remember on cooling paste... 'more is less'. You need cooling paste, but its not glue.. is there to fill the AIR between cooler and cpu.. You do not have much air in between that.
(obviously do not forget to set XMP in bios/uefi)
Long screwdrivers can help access hard to reach places.
Get help from a 2nd person. A neighbour, family, anyone. For some cooling sets, since they are so big and heavy, it can be helpful if someone holds it in place while the other screws it down, thats including backplate.
whish me luck!
Make sure you use the same colored slots because otherwise the rams won't run in dual channel. Which one of them you use doesn't really matter.
@GhoulofGSG9 will this void the warranty??